PARADISE COUNTRY ...
Saturday, July 8, 2006, 09:12 PM - Muhlenberg County
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Airdrie and its furnace were built
in 1855 by R. S. C. A. Alexander, and since that time it has been one
of the most interesting spots along Green River. General Don Carlos
Buell made it his home in 1866, and continued to live there until his
death in 1898. In the course of years Airdrie's twenty-five or more
frame houses have all been abandoned. The Deserted Village became a
demolished village, and to-day little is left to mark the site of this
once-flourishing town. No trace of the buildings that stood on Airdrie
Hill can now be found. Some of the houses were carried off in the shape
of lumber, others tumbled down years ago and rotted away. The Buell
residence, erected by William McLean many years before Airdrie was
started, was not only the largest and oldest residence in the place but
was also the last to pass away. It burned in 1907. This historic
mansion stood in a beautiful park near the top of Airdrie Hill, on
which the town was built. The landscape viewed from this spot, up and
down Green River and across the stream and overlooking the farms and
forests in Ohio County, is an unusually beautiful one. This riverside
park, so well kept by General Buell during his lifetime, is now almost
a jungle. The winding paths are rampant with ivy and honeysuckle, the
foot-bridges are tottering, and what was once a shaded lawn is now
overgrown with wild weeds and run-wild shrubbery.
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On the narrow strip of land between
the water's edge and the top of the hill, and running parallel with the
river, are now found the only evidences of the old iron works and old
mines. Among the cedars and sycamores are the ruins of a large brick
chimney, and near it lie two rusty boilers. Here and there, protruding
from the ground, can be seen traces of old stone walls that remind one
more of the work of prehistoric mound-builders than of a foundation
laid by mill-builders. Two of the old shafts look like long-abandoned
wells, and another like a mere hole in the ground. The opening on the
hillside leading into the abandoned drift mine, known as the "McLean
Old Bank," looks like the entrance to a cave that has never been
explored.
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The stack of the furnace still
stands, a majestic old pile, fifty-five feet or more in height. But the
days of this picturesque landmark are evidently numbered. Near the
stack is the Stone House, whose massive walls seem able to defy storm
and sunshine for many years to come. This house, used in former times
for machinery, is a sandstone structure three stories high, fifty by
twenty feet. The wooden floors and window frames have long ago fallen
away. This fortlike building was at one time covered with a slate roof,
which was ruined by visitors throwing rocks on it from the top of the
bluff at the foot of which the house stands. The shingle roof placed on
it by General Buell has since met with the same fate. About half-way up
the wall of the Stone House, between two windows, the thoughtful
architect placed a large stone bearing the inscription, "Airdrie,
1855."
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The hillside stone steps leading
from a point just beyond the Stone House to the top of Airdrie Hill,
where the town stood, are most picturesque. Virginia creeper has found
its way up the solid stone foundation, and the drooping branches of the
nearby trees shade the beds of heavy moss and clusters of clinging
ferns. The sixty stone steps, although without railing, can still be
climbed in safety.Paradise and the Highway Thereto
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The stack of the old furnace,
together with the Stone House and the stone steps, as they stand to-day
(about fifty yards from the river), suggest a bygone time with which
one's imagination could associate any longpast age in the world's
history, if the "1855" chiseled deep into its ancient walls did not
keep the mind from wandering back further.
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Such, as I have tried to describe
it, is the Airdrie of to-day. Although Airdrie's history does not begin
until 1855, the traditions of that neighborhood go back to the end of
the Eighteenth Century. Airdrie Hill is about one mile below Paradise.
Paradise is one of the oldest places in the county, and is built on
land first settled by pioneer Leonard Stum (or Stom), who opened up a
farm and with his sons Jacob and Henry conducted the first store where
the town now stands. Their boat landing was for many years known as
Stum's Landing, and it is very probable that before their death, along
in the '40s, the name of the settlement was changed to Paradise.
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Jacob Stum, it is said, was "long,
lean and lank," weighed only seventy pounds, and measured about six
feet in height. He was never known to be ill but once. On that
occasion, while confined to his room with "the slow fever." a new
doctor, who was unacquainted in the neighborhood, was summoned to his
bedside. The physician had never seen his patient "stand on his pegs,"
so tradition says, nor had he ever heard of his feathery weight. When,
therefore, he stepped into Jacob's room he asked to be shown the sick
man. At the sight of the "skin and bones" the frightened doctor rushed
from the house, saying Jacob was even less mortal than a living
skeleton. He informed the family that the patient, although "able to
sit up and eat a snack," must have died some months ago, but owing to
the absence of flesh the worms made no attack on him, and that the
voice they heard was the voice of Jacob's spirit "talking through his
hide." Nevertheless, the sick man recovered from the attack of typhoid
fever and, says tradition, continued to "play hookey from the
graveyard" for many years.
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His brother Henry on the other
hand, was a man of normal proportions, but never enjoyed the best of
health. Both were upright and highly respected men and lived to a ripe
old age, and are now represented in the county by many descendants.
Pioneer Leonard Stum was the father of Henry, Jacob, and George Stum,
Mrs. Judith (Aaron) Smith, and Mrs. Frank Kirtley.
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Matthew or Mattheis Hamm was among
the early settlers who lived near Pond Creek, in the Paradise country.
He came to Muhlenberg from North Carolina in 1797, accompanied by his
wife and what was then their only child, and also by his mother,
Barbara Hamm, who died three years later. He was a well-to-do farmer
and at times served his community as a preacher. The German Bible he
brought with him is now the property of J. Luther Hamm, son of Reverend
Jacob Hamm. Unfortunately, the title page of this old and heavily bound
volume is among the few leaves that have disappeared, and the time and
place of its publication are unknown.
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In 1802, when pioneer Peter Shull
(or Scholl) came to Paradise from Pennsylvania, he found no one living
in the immediate vicinity but the Stum families. Peter's father served
seven years in the Revolutionary War; Peter himself served two years in
the War of 1812, and Peter's son, E. E. C. Shull, the well-known
hotel-keeper at Paradise, served four years as a Federal soldier in the
Civil War, making a total of thirteen years of active military service
in three generations of Shulls.
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Among other first-comers in this
neighborhood were three of the sons of Peter Smith, of North
Carolina--Aaron, James, and Elias Smith, who have many descendants in
Ohio and Muhlenberg counties. William H. Smith, the old Federal
soldier, is a grandson of Aaron and Judith (Stum) Smith. Isaac
Hunsacker and Joseph Heck were early settlers there.
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Five members of the Yonts (or
Yontz) family came to the Paradise country from North Carolina about
1812 and became well known in Muhlenberg County. They were Philip,
Rudolph, and Lawrence Yonts, Elizabeth, who married William Heltsley,
and Susan, who married Michael Heltsley, All of them settled near the
home of Eli Smith, who was a kinsman of the Elias Smith just referred
to.
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Abraham Roll, although not one of
the earliest settlers in the Paradise country, was one of the most
influential men in that section. He was born in Virginia May 27, 1798,
came to Muhlenberg, from Hardin County in 1826, and died on his farm,
near Paradise, January 30, 1838. He was the father of Mrs. Elizabeth
(Philip) Heltsley, David B., Michael F., and Thos. J. Roll, Mrs. Sally
Ann (A. L.) Depoyster, and Mrs. Tiney (Henry) Moore.
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None of the first-comers in the
Paradise country were better known than Oliver Cromwell Vanlandingham,
sr., who in his day was one of the most polished and liberal self-made
men of the county. He was born in Northumberland County, Virginia, in
1784. While still a small boy he, with his parents and his sister
Elizabeth, left Virginia for Muhlenberg. The father died on the way.
After burying her husband Mrs. Vanlandingham and the other members of
the party resumed their trip and finally arrived near Paradise, where
she procured some land. There she and her two children worked hard and
soon placed themselves in comfortable circumstances. She was a
well-educated woman, and up to about the time her children were married
devoted practically all her evenings to their education. Her daughter
Elizabeth married Samuel Weir, a prominent farmer, brother of pioneer
James Weir. Her son, O. C. Vanlandingham, sr., was for a few years
associated in the mercantile business with pioneer James Weir. After he
and Weir dissolved partnership he made a number of trips to New
Orleans, where he sold the hides and produce he bought in the eastern
part of the county. In 1823 he married Mary A. Drake, of Louisiana, and
shortly after removed to Shawneetown, Illinois. In the meantime he
retained the property he owned in Muhlenberg, including the place on
which he had erected a large log dwelling. His wife, during one of
their many visits to Muhlenberg, died on their farm near Paradise,
December 22, 1844. In 1845 he and his five children, including O. C.
Vanlandingham, jr., moved to Baton Rouge, where he had bought a large
plantation. There he married Amelia Blount, of Louisiana. He died on
this plantation October 2, 1856, aged seventy-two. His remains were
brought to Kentucky and buried by the side of his first wife, near what
he always called his "old Muhlenberg home."O. C. Vanlandingham, Sr.
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In 1847 his eldest son, O. C.
Vanlandingham, jr., returned to Muhlenberg and married Margaret J.
Weir, daughter of Samuel M. Weir. He remained in the county for ten
years, looking after his father's property. In 1857, after the death of
his father, he moved to Louisiana to take charge of the Vanlandingham
plantation. At the breaking out of the Civil War he became a member of
a Confederate cavalry regiment and served during the greater part of
the war. During the war practically everything on the Louisiana
plantation was burned or ruined and the hundred or more slaves owned by
the Vanlandinghams were set free, leaving nothing of the great estate
but the ground. About the year 1868 he and his family returned to their
farm near Paradise, where he died in 1905. He owned a large library,
and was regarded as one of the best-read men in the county. O. C.
Vanlandingham, jr., and his wife were the parents of two daughters and
six sons, all of whom live in the Paradise country, among them being
Samuel P. and Oliver C. Vanlandingham, the two well-known farmers.
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Among the influential men who began
an active career in the Paradise country during the second quarter of
the last century was George W. Haden, who was born in Maryland December
6, 1813. He was a son of Joseph Haden, a pioneer of Kentucky, who at
the time of the birth of his son was temporarily located in Hagerstown,
Maryland. His parents made the return trip west over the mountains and
through Kentucky on horseback, carrying their little son George with
them. George W. Haden's mill was the first saw mill erected in the
vicinity of Paradise. After running a horse-power "upright saw" or
"sash saw" for a number of years he put in a circular saw run by steam,
the second of its kind in the county. His mill business was well
established when Alexander began building Airdrie. He sawed all the
lumber used in the erection of its houses. He also built the first
flat-boats used by the various coal operators who mined at Airdrie
before the arrival of Alexander. Mr. Haden lived on his large farm east
of Drakesboro, and for almost a half century was connected with various
saw mills in Muhlenberg. He was a Southern sympathizer, and made many
sacrifices for the Lost Cause. Mr. and Mrs. Haden were the parents of
Joseph C. Haden, Mrs. Amanad (Doctor J. G.) Bohannon, and Roy Haden,
Mr. Haden died in Greenville November 10, 1904.George W. Haden, 1895
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The land on which the town of
Airdrie was later built was for a short time the property of Judge
Alney McLean. His son, William McLean, in the latter part of the '30s,
began, near the building once occupied by his father, the house
afterward known as the Alexander house and which later became the Buell
house. William McLean was the eldest son of Judge Alney McLean and was
the first, so it is said, to work the coal around Airdrie. After the
death of his father in 1841 he moved his mother and her children from
Greenville to his new residence. While the McLean family was living
here William McLean married. A few years later he and his wife moved
South, but frequently returned to visit their old home. In the meantime
the coal mine opened by him was worked by William Duncan, of Bedford,
Indiana, and J. W. Newlan, who were succeeded by Thomas Carson, of
Bowling Green, who was probably the last to work the McLean coal bank
before the arrival of Alexander.
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In those days steamboats plied on
Green River between Bowling Green and Louisville. None ever passed the
McLean house without a salute. It was from the McLean landing that many
Greenville and other Muhlenberg people took passage. What was, in 1846,
the newest and finest boat on Green River was named "Lucy Wing," in
honor of the daughter of Charles Fox Wing. Captain Culiver was always
in charge of this boat. It is said he was a great admirer of "Poems by
Amelia," and that he presented many of his passengers with copies of
that work. This was a book published in 1845 by Amelia Welby, a popular
Ohio poetess of that time, whose writings were exploited by George D.
Prentice.
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Airdrie derives its name from a
small city of the same name in Scotland, situated between Edinburg and
Glasgow. It is the old home of the titled Alexanders, Robert Sproul
Crawford Aitcheson Alexander, the founder of Airdrie in Muhlenberg, was
born in Frankfort, Kentucky, in 1819. He was a son of Honorable Robert
Alexander and a grandson of Sir William Alexander and his wife, who was
a Miss Aitcheson, of the House of Airdrie, Scotland. The Honorable
Robert's eldest brother was a bachelor and was named, like their
father, William, he succeeded to the title. This Sir William, the
bachelor, promised his brother Robert, then living in the Bluegrass
region of Kentucky, to educate his oldest son Robert and let him
succeed to the title and estate if he would send him over to Scotland
for that purpose. This was done, and after Sir William's death young
Robert fell heir to the estate. Some years after the death of his uncle
he decided to return to America in order to be near his brother and
sisters (Alexander John Alexander, Mrs. J. B. Waller, and Mrs. H. C.
Deeds). Besides, his supply of Black Band iron ore in Scotland was
about exhausted. He made a search for similar ore in America through
his geologists, Charles Hendrie, sr., and his son Alexander Hendrie,
who discovered the existence of a desirable ore, in 1851, first near
the abandoned Buckner Furnace and The Airdrie Furnace then near
Paradise. Alexander bought about seventeen thousand acres of land in
Muhlenberg, all of which with the exception of the Buckner Furnace lay
along Green River.
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Alexander believed the Scotch were
the most competent iron-workers in the world, and so, during the latter
part of 1854, he brought many of his former employes and their families
to his new Airdrie. A special ship, it is said, was chartered for the
trip. It required six weeks for their sailing-vessel to cross the
ocean. Tradition has it that their boat had a collision with a
waterlogged boat, which resulted in changing their course to such an
extent that they landed at New York instead of Philadelphia. From
Pittsburgh they came down the Ohio, and after some delay in Louisville
started up Green River. Upon arriving at Airdrie, their "New Scotland,"
they immediately set to work finishing the houses begun in the new town
by Alexander Hendrie and a number of local masons and carpenters, among
whom were Alfred Johnson and his son Lonz Johnson, and Thomas Sumner
and his son Alney McLean Sumner.The Stone House, Airdrie
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Alexander spared no expense in his
work. The capital at his disposal for this undertaking was practically
unlimited. It is said he invested over $350,000. He enlarged the McLean
house, in which he retained a few rooms for his personal use. Besides
the furnace, Stone House, and mill he erected a two-story frame hotel,
a few two-story frame dwellings, and about twenty frame cottages of
three rooms each. These houses were lathed and plastered and supplied
with massive chimneys and large open fire-places. Everybody around the
works, regardless of position, was comfortably housed.
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After considerable drilling,
digging, and delaying, the furnace was finally started. Alexander, as
said before, believed the Scotch were the most competent iron-workers
in the world, and he therefore gave them full sway. While his men may
have been thoroughly familiar with the handling of the Black Band iron
ore of Scotland, they evidently did not realize that the ore here
required a different treatment. Three or four unsuccessful attempts
were made to run the furnace. The trouble lay not in the ore, but in
its management. Had they changed some of their methods, the
probabilities are that the undertaking would have been a grand success.
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Alexander's patience soon gave out.
He cared very little about the money involved, for it was only a small
part of his fortune. He set a date for the discontinuing of the work,
and although the drillers discovered more iron ore on the preannounced
last day, Alexander nevertheless clung to his firm resolution and
abandoned the work. This was in the fall of 1857. He retired to his
stock farm near Lexington, where he did probably more than any other
one man toward the improvement of blooded stock in this State. At the
time of his death, on his farm December 1, 1867, he was reputed to be
the richest man in Kentucky.
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Sir Robert S. C. Aitcheson
Alexander was a bachelor. After the death of his uncle he became known
as Lord Alexander. He was a quiet, modest, unassuming man. His employes
called him "the lord." On one occasion a backwoodsman named Williams
paid a visit to Airdrie, and upon his arrival immediately asked for
"that there Lord." Alexander was pointed out to him. Williams "sashayed
around him and sized him up from head to foot," and then expressed his
astonishment by saying, "So you are the Lord, are you? By gum, you are
nothin' but a human bein' after all, and a plain, ordinary, say-little
sort of a feller at that. They said you was a Big Bug, but five foot
six will reach you any day in the week, by Washington!" This amused
Alexander, for he realized how unconsciously but truthfully the speaker
had described him. He gave Williams a hearty handshake, and a few weeks
later the backwoodsman presented "Lord Ellick" with "enough venison for
all Scotland."The Stone Steps, Airdrie
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Notwithstanding the fact that the
furnace was a failure from a commercial standpoint, life in the colony
was happy. Although the men spent most of their time at work connected
with the mines and furnace and the women were occupied with their
household affairs, amusements of many sorts were frequent. The women
attended afternoon gatherings of various sorts, and did much toward
introducing new customs among the native families with whom they came
in contact. The men were good fishermen and splendid swimmers. Archie
Pollock, one of the jolliest of the Scotlanders, was the "champion
fist-fighter." In fact, friendly fist-fights were on the program more
than any other sport. Dances were frequently given. Some of the old
Scotch airs introduced by them can still be heard at "old fiddlers'
contests" occasionally held in the county.
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Although the town of Airdrie was
short-lived, its establishment resulted in the introduction of many new
and desirable families into Muhlenberg. After the withdrawal of
Alexander practically all the men and women who came from Scotland
remained in the county, and are to-day represented by many descendants.
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Andrew Duncan and his brothers
Robert and David Duncan left Scotland for America in the early part of
1855, and a few months later Alexander sent for them to come to
Airdrie. They were practical miners, and Alexander gave them a contract
to sink a shaft. One of the brothers managed the day shift and the
other the night crew. William G. Duncan, now the best-known mine
operator in Kentucky, is a son of Andrew Duncan, and David John Duncan,
the well-known insurance man of Greenville, is a son of David Duncan.
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James Gilmour and his brother
Matthew Gilmour were among Alexander's trusted employes. James spent
most of his life in the Paradise country, and died there in 1895. James
G. Gilmour, of Paradise, is his son. Matthew returned to Scotland and
there managed a large coal mine.
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Robert Kipling, the patternmaker,
was an Englishman and came to Airdrie with Frank Toll. After the works
were abandoned he located on a farm near Paradise, where he died March
10, 1902. Among his children now living in the county are Miss M.
Bettie, Miss Rhoda A., George S., and R. Henry Kipling. Kipling, like
every other man in Airdrie, was an admirer of J. Jack Robertson, of the
upper Pond Creek country. Kipling designed and cast a number of
door-props called "Old Jack Robertson." They were iron figures about
ten inches long and five inches high, representing "Old Jack" sitting
on the floor with his legs stretched out, a goose between them, and he
in the act of carving it. A few of these iron doorweights can still be
found in the county.
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Alexander Hendrie was Alexander's
geologist. His father, Charles Hendrie, sr., was manager of the estates
belonging to the House of Airdrie. Alexander Hendrie, or "Scotch
Henry," was born in Airdrie, Scotland. June 24, 1820. In 1848 he came
to the United States in search of iron ore for Alexander. In 1850 he
located in Paducah, where by prearrangement he met his father, with
whom he made an exploration of the deposits of iron ore in Western
Kentucky. In the course of a few months they began an investigation of
the Buckner Furnace tract and there found the ore that they considered
was what they were looking for. Their recommendation of the iron ore
found on this tract resulted in Alexander's buying the place in 1851.
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Hendrie, wishing to be near his
work, moved into the abandoned Buckner house, which he had restored for
that purpose. While living near The Stack he occupied some of his
leisure time farming. In the meantime he explored various parts of the
county, and among other places diseovered iron ore near Paradise.
Alexander visited Hendrie on the Buckner place and discussed with him
the questions of quality, quantity, and location of the iron ores on
the various tracts that had been bought. Hendrie advised Alexander not
to repair The Stack, where transportation facilities were an obstacle,
but to build a new furnace on Green River. In 1853 they selected a site
below Paradise and named it Airdrie. Hendrie, assisted by Matthew
Gilmour, immediately began the new town. Alexander Hendrie's brother,
John Hendrie, while still in Scotland, drew the plans for the new
furnace and Stone House.Alexander Hendrie, 1852
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About 1853 Alexander Hendrie moved
to Airdrie. In the meantime he superintended the farming on the Buckner
place. He continued to look after that tract until he resigned as
manager of the Airdrie furnace. He made many trips between the two
places on his celebrated mare "Susie." This animal was burned to death
while hitched in one of the Buckner stables; however, shortly after,
George W. Haden presented him with a mare, "Dolly," that for many years
was considered one of the most beautiful and intelligent animals in the
county. Alexander Hendrie had a good education, and notwithstanding one
report to the contrary, was a sober and industrious man. Tradition says
his only fault lay in the fact that he was "too good for his own good."
After his resignation as manager of Airdrie he continued his visits to
Lexington, where he was invariably the guest of his friend Alexander.
Shortly after he left Airdrie he became connected with the Riverside
mine, where he remained until about 1864, when he moved to his farm in
Ohio County, where he died in May, 1874. One of his sons is Charles
Hendrie, the well-known mining engineer of Central City.
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John Macdougal, the father of
William Macdougal, was also among those who held responsible positions
at Airdrie. Gilbert Muir, the father-in-law of James Gilmour, was the
"driver" or engineer, and retained charge of the machinery long after
the furnace was abandoned. Robert Patterson was the bookkeeper and also
one of the civil engineers. It was he who surveyed a line from Airdrie,
while the furnace was in operation, to the old Buckner Furnace, from
which place Alexander was planning to get ore. Henry Southerland was a
shoemaker in Scotland, and continued in that line of work at Airdrie
and Paradise.
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William Torrence was the
engine-builder, in which capacity he had also worked in Scotland.
Shortly before the works were abandoned he became one of the overseers.
After the place was shut down he farmed across Green River from
Airdrie. At the breaking out of the war Torrence became a member of
Company I, Eleventh Kentucky Infantry, and later settled in Rockport,
where he died. Frank Toll held various positions at the furnace.Mill
Chimneys, Airdrie, 1900
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Much has been written about
Airdrie. As far as I am aware, the sketches that have been published
are all, with one exception, nothing more than absurd murder and ghost
stories, that evidently originated in the minds of those who wrote
them. The exception I refer to is "A Report upon the Airdrie Furnace
and Property," republished by the Kentucky State Geological Survey from
an original record made in 1874 by P. N. Moore to Professor N. S.
Shaler, then in charge of the Survey. It is a report of twenty-eight
pages on the character of the coal and iron resources on the Airdrie
property. One page is devoted to a description of the furnace and about
three pages to its history. These I quote:
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The furnace was built in 1855-56.
It has an iron shell stack, resting upon a masonry base, twenty-six and
a half feet square by twenty-one feet high. The outside diameter of the
shell is twenty-three feet. The internal dimensions of the furnace are
as follows: height fifty feet, diameter of bosh seventeen feet, height
to bosh twenty-four feet (bosh cylindrical for six feet), diameter of
throat eleven feet. The hearth is four feet high (elliptical in shape),
seven feet four inches by (about) five feet.
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The furnace is entirely
open-topped, having no facilities for saving the gases, and requiring
separate firing for both boilers and hot-blast.
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There are two hot-blast ovens of
the old-fashioned pistol-pipe pattern, with thirty-four pipes in each
oven, ten curved pipes on each side, with seven straight at each end.
The pipes are eight feet long, elliptical in cross-section, nine by
eighteen inches, with diaphragm through the center of each.
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There are four boilers, each forty
inches in diameter by twenty-eight feet in length, each boiler having
two flues. The engine is vertical, with direct connection between the
steam and blast cylinders, and also connected with a heavy walking-beam
and fly-wheel, the walking-beam working with a counterpoise at one end.
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The steam cylinder is twenty inches
in diameter and nine feet stroke; the blast cylinder six feet ten
inches in diameter, stroke same as steam cylinder.
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The engine-house is a splendid
stone structure, built of a fine freestone, which occurs at the
furnace. Everything about the furnace is constructed in the most
thorough and durable manner.
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The top of the furnace is about the
level of the No. 11 Coal, to be hereafter described, and the ore and
coal from the No. 12 seam were brought to the furnace mouth through a
tunnel cut in the No. 11 Coal. The engine is in good order and well
preserved.
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The furnace proper stands perfectly
sound (1874) and could, in a very brief time, be put in condition to go
into blast; but among the buildings attached thereto the lapse of many
years since they were in use has not been without its effect, so that
repairs to both buildings and hot-blast apparatus will need to be made
before they can be used again.
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The Airdrie Furnace property
consists of about 17,000 acres of land in Muhlenberg County, Kentucky.
This land is not all in one body, but lies in various sized lots,
ranging from 500 to 5,000 acres. The greater portion of the estate lies
within a short distance of the furnace; but one tract of about 5,000
acres--the old Buckner Furnace property--is about five miles from
Greenville, the county seat of Muhlenberg County, and fifteen miles
from Airdrie. . . .
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Having thus considered in detail
the resources of this property, and seen the remarkable advantages it
possesses for obtaining fuel and cheap and varied supplies of ores, the
question naturally presents itself: why, then, with all these
advantages, was the furnace no more successful on its former trial?
This is a serious and important question, for the reproach of failure
laid against an enterprise of this kind outweighs many advantages.
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Into the answer a number of reasons
enter, and to render them properly understood it will be necessary to
go into the history of the former campaign of the furnace in some
detail, and to refer to the management of the enterprise in language
which is unmistakable, although it may seriously reflect upon the
business sagacity of some persons once connected with it who are no
longer living. It should be premised that the information upon which
the following account is based was obtained partly from the books of
the furnace and partly from men who were on the ground, connected with
the furnace in various capacities.
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The enterprise seems to have been
conceived by its proprietor in a spirit in which benevolence, national
pride, and the desire for a profitable investment were strangely
mingled. Being a Scotchman, and having some knowledge of iron
manufacture as practiced in Scotland, he not unnaturally believed men
of that nationality to be the most competent and desirable persons to
conduct establishments for iron-making.
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He, therefore, committed from the
beginning the serious mistake of employing almost exclusively newly
arrived foreigners, men who, however competent at home, were without
any knowledge of American prices and metallurgical practice, or
experience with American ores and fuel.
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Having found what was firmly
believed to be the equivalent of the celebrated Scotch Black Band iron
ore, and an associate coal which it was thought could be used raw in
the furnace, he proceeded to erect a furnace modeled after the Scotch
pattern. He brought over large numbers of Scotch miners and furnace
men, and employed them almost exclusively; giving them to understand,
it is reported, that it was to improve their condition, rather than in
hopes of great returns, that he had made the investment. He employed as
superintendent and manager an uneducated, dissipated Scotchman, a man
wholly unfit to fill so important and responsible a position, and to
him he gave almost entire charge of the whole enterprise, often not
visiting the property for months at a time.
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Under such conditions, it is no
wonder that there was mismanagement, and that ill-advised expenditures
were made.
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For three years, while the slow
process of development was going on, the furnace and machinery erected,
entries driven, and the great shaft, five and a half by eighteen feet,
sunk to a depth of four hundred and thirty feet in search of a mythical
ore (known to exist fifteen miles distant and nowhere between), the
proprietor continued uncomplainingly to increase his investment.Some of
the Abandoned Houses at Airdrie
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At last the furnace was started. It
ran a few days very unsuccessfully, producing iron of a poor quality
and in small amount, when an accident to the boiler compelled it to be
blown out.
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Repairs were made in due time and
the furnace again started. The working was no better than before, and
the iron not improved in quality or quantity. In twenty-two days from
the time of starting the saddleplate of the walking-beam broke,
disabling the engine and compelling the furnace to be shoveled out.
Again it started and again, after a short run, no more successful than
the last, an accident happened to the engine, the cast-iron shaft of
the fly-wheel broke, and once more the furnace was shoveled out.
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In all three of these unfortunate
campaigns the furnace was not in blast altogether more than six weeks
or two months.
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After the last blast the manager
concluded that the coal did not work well raw, and so made a large
amount of coke from it to be tried at the next blast, but the next
blast never came; the proprietor's patience was exhausted; he stopped
operations entirely, discharged his men, and shut up the mines and
furnace.
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Since that time (November, 1857)
the furnace has never been in operation. The No. 11 Coal has been
worked largely for shipment to the Southern market, but beyond that the
property has been lying idle and unproductive.
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The closing of the furnace at that
time was a mistake no less serious than some committed in starting it.
The manager was beginning to learn, by the only method by which a
so-called practical, uneducated man can learn--his own dear-bought
experience--that American ores and fuel are not exactly like the
Scotch, and that different practice is required for their treatment.
Had he been allowed to go on, using coke for fuel, it is not unlikely
that his next campaign would have proved much more successful.
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It can be truly said that the
furnace has never been subjected to a fair trial. A total campaign of
six weeks or two months, divided into three short blasts, affords no
fair basis for judgment as to the merits of furnace, fuel or ore.
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After the withdrawal of Alexander
his lands in Muhlenberg County were placed in charge of Colonel S. P.
Love. He was succeeded by Thomas Bruce, a merchant and one-time county
clerk, who looked after Alexander's interests a short time. Along in
these years Doctor Shelby A. Jackson was in some way connected with
Airdrie. Doctor Jackson was one of the most widely known men of his
day. David B. Roll followed Thomas Bruce as agent of the land. "Squire'
Roll, as he was familiarly called, was a magistrate for ten years in
succession, a well-to-do farmer and stock-raiser, and the owner of
considerable property. The overseeing of the Alexander tracts was in
"Squire" Roll's hands when General Don Carlos Buell appeared on the
scene. 1
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Immediately after the close of the
war General Buell began a search for an oil field. He came to Airdrie
from Marietta, Ohio, in 1866, for the sole purpose of working the oil
on the Alexander lands. He took a forty-year mineral and oil lease on
Alexander's seventeen thousand acres. Alexander was to receive, among
other things, one tenth of all "the petroleum or other oil or oily
substance obtained from the land." This company, of which General Buell
was president, was known as the Airdrie Petroleum Co.
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Buell drilled
extensively on the
Alexander property along Green River and also on the Buckner Furnace
tract. Airdrie being on Green River, and having the best transportation
facilities, he decided to establish himself there. Furthermore, after
the death of Alexander, the Alexander heirs, wishing to dispose of some
of the property which they had inherited, entered into an agreement
with Buell whereby the latter received a deed to the Airdrie furnace
and about a thousand acres around it for having released the forty-year
lease that he then held. He thereafter confined his work to his own
property near Airdrie. However, the coal Buell discovered while looking
for oil was in such abundance that he changed his plans and directed
most of his attention to coal development.Ruins at Airdrie in 1900
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In the meantime
(1868) The Green
and Barren Rivers Navigation Company leased Green River, which stream
up to that time had been directly controlled by the State of Kentucky.
The increased freight rate demanded by the new corporation was so much
that Buell could not meet the prices of his competitors, to whom a
lower freight rate was given. He fought the corporation through the
Legislature for some fifteen years. His long, hard, and
time-sacrificing work resulted in the Federal government purchasing the
unexpired lease of the Navigation Company in 1888. The river was then
put in good order and the old locks were improved and new ones added.
For this work alone he deserves a monument.
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After Buell had
won his
transportation rate fight he felt too far advanced in years to again
begin his work of developing the mines. In the meantime much of the
machinery had gone to wreck and ruin, and some of it had been sold. On
one occasion, it is said, an old-iron peddler agreed to buy all the old
pig iron and scrap iron lying around the furnace. The peddler loaded
his barge, however, not only with scrap, but with all the machinery on
the place except the two boilers standing there to-day. Under the
circumstances, and in spite of the available mineral, it is not at all
surprising that nothing further was undertaken by General Buell. 2
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Of all the
extravagant stories told
about Airdrie, few are more absurd than those relative to the Stone
House, sometimes--but erroneously--called the Old Prison. Some declare
Alexander worked prisoners in his mines; others say Buell used them in
connection with his work. One young man's idea was that Buell here held
the prisoners he had captured in the Civil War. A number of people are
under the impression that the Stone House was built by and for some of
the State convicts. In fact, one can hear anything and everything in
regard to the "prisoners" except that they were free workmen brought
over from Scotland by Alexander.The Old Hotel Building at Airdrie in
1895
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The truth of the
matter, however,
is this: About 1884, when Eddyville prison was being enlarged,
arrangements were made with General Buell to quarry stone on his place,
to be used in the new penitentiary. About fifteen prisoners were sent
by the State for the purpose of getting out the rock, who while at
Airdrie were quartered in the Stone House. They remained only a few
weeks, for in the meantime other stone had been discovered by General
Lyon near Eddyville, and the State then transferred the prisoners to
the new quarry.
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Many ghost
stories are connected
with the old hotel building at Airdrie. It was the largest frame house
erected by Alexander. It remained unoccupied after Alexander abandoned
the furnace, and its weatherbeaten walls, broken windows, and generally
dilapidated condition gave rise to a report that the place was haunted.
Although all traces of the hotel have disappeared, the ghost stories
have continued to increase in number and variety. Many of them begin
with a murder scene and end with the maneuvers of a headless ghost. No
one was ever killed in or near the building, all reports to the
contrary notwithstanding.Entrance to the "McLean Old Bank," Airdrie
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The stories about
the haunted hotel
and of "prisoners" being worked by the owners of Airdrie are as
groundless as those circulated over the country regarding the kinship
or friendship that is said to have existed between General Buell and
General Bragg. These two soldiers were not related by blood or
marriage, and did not "sleep in the same bed the night before the
battle of Perryville." General Buell on November 19, 1851, married the
widow of General Richard Barnes Mason, who was a grandson of General
George Mason of Revolutionary fame. General Bragg's wife was Miss
Ellis, of Louisiana. General Buell's wife before her second marriage
was Mrs Margaret (Turner) Mason, the mother of Miss Nannie Mason Mrs.
Buell died in Airdrie on August 10, 1881. After her death Mrs. Course,
the General's sister, made the place her home until 1885, when she
died. General Buell died at Airdrie on November 19, 1898, and his body
was sent to Belfontaine Cemetery, St. Louis. His estate was willed to
Miss Nannie Mason, who a few years after his death made Louisville her
home and died there November 19, 1912. In 1908 she sold the Airdrie
lands to the Five J. Coal Company, of which Shelby J. Gish, of Central
City, is general manager.McLean Old Spring, Airdrie, 1900
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After the
General's death William
Shackelton occupied the house for about two years. He was succeeded by
Lorenzo D. Griggs. John Hendrie, the then aged architect of the old
stone structures at Airdrie, occupied the house from September, 1904,
to November, 1906. David Rhoads came next, and was living in the
historie mansion when, on the night of October 26, 1907, it was
destroyed by fire.Don Carlos Buell, 1866
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During its
seventy-five years of
existence many of Muhlenberg's pioneers loitered under its roof.
Alexander entertained a number of renowned American and foreign
visitors while living there. Charles Eaves was General Buell's most
intimate friend in the county and likewise his most frequent visitor.
During Buell's residence in Airdrie many men prominent in military and
social circles were his guests. None, however, no matter how
distinguished, was received with more open arms than his neighbors and
friends of the Green River country.General Buell's Private Park,
Residence, and Boathouse, Airdrie, 1900
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General Buell
lived in this house
thirty-two years, including the four years (1885-1889) he made
Louisville his headquarters while Pension Agent for Kentucky. In 1880
and during a number of years following he was one of the Commissioners
of the State Agricultural College. He was one of the early members of
the Kentucky State Historical Society, and was also identified with
many conventions that have aided in the development of the resources of
the State. In 1890, when the Shiloh Military Park Commission was
organized, he was appointed one of its members, and served on that
board up to the time of his death. Although never an applicant for
office, General Buell's name has been mentioned in connection with many
high offices, among them being the presidency of the United States.
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When, owing
principally to his
efforts, the Federal government assumed charge of Green River, General
Buell had reached the age of seventy. In his declining years he spent
most of his time on his two hobbies--working in his little carpenter
shop, and looking after the trees and shrubbery in his park, which he
kept always in good condition. He had a mechanical turn, and among
other things constructed in his carpenter shop a model of a large
dish-washing machine, such as are used in hotels, whereby one man can
do the work of four. He never patented it.General Buell's Residence,
Airdrie, in 1900
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General Buell
never engaged in
farming, but rented out a small portion of his land to others, from
whom he received enough hay and corn for rent to supply his own needs.
He was always an admirer of native trees, wild birds, and good
saddle-horses. From the time he first came to Muhlenberg until shortly
before his death he could be seen almost every day riding in the
country near Airdrie with his wife or daughter. When, about 1880, his
favorite horse "Shiloh" (presented to him during the war) died, he
buried him on Airdrie Hill, putting a small rock at the head of the
grave. He treated every animal on his place with the gentleness that a
loving father would a small child. In his old age he continued to walk
and ride with a military air. Everything he did was done in a most
systematic manner. He was well informed on current events and subjects
generally, and all who knew him personally speak of him as a most
interesting conversationalist. He was an optimist and never found fault
with anything. One of his most intimate friends in Muhlenberg says:
"Not once did he as much as intimate to me that the Government had
given him little or no reward for the services he had rendered in peace
and in war."
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General Buell,
while living at
Airdrie, wrote on various subjects. Among his writings are three
articles pertaining to the Civil War--"Shiloh Reviewed," "Operations in
North Carolina," and "East Tennessee and the Campaign of Perryville,"
all of which were published in 1887 by The Century Company in "Battles
and Leaders of the Civil War." General Buell, shortly after the death
of his wife, wrote the following poem, heretofore unpublished, for a
copy of which I am indebted to his stepdaughter, Miss Nannie
Mason.Ruins of General Buell's Residence, Airdrie, 1912.
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Thou and I.
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Strange, strange
for thee and me,
Sadly afar, Thou safe, beyond, above, I 'neath the star; Thou, where
flowers deathless spring, I, where they fade, Thou, in God's holy
light, I, in the shade.
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Thou, where each
gale brings balm,
I, tempest tossed, Thou, where true joy is found, I, where 'tis lost;
Thou, counting ages thine, I, not the morrow, Thou, learning more of
bliss, I, more of sorrow.
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Thou, in eternal
peace, I, where
'tis strife, Thou, where care hath no name, I, where 'tis life; Thou,
without need of hope, I, where 'tis rain, Thou, with wings dropping
light, I, with Time's chain.
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Strange, strange,
for thee and me,
Loved, loving ever, Thou, by life's deathless fount, I, near Death's
river; Thou, winning wisdom's love, I, strength to trust, Thou, with
the seraphim, I, in the dust.
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1.
Don Carlos Buell was born at Lowell, Ohio, March 23,
1818; moved to
Indianapolis, Indiana, in his youth, and entered West Point in 1837,
from which military academy he was graduated July 1, 1841. He fought in
the Mexican War, and from 1848 to 1861 served as chief of various
departments. In July, 1861, he was made Brigadier-General of
Volunteers, and in March, 1862, Major-General. The timely arrival at
Shiloh of the Army of the Ohio, under his command, resulted in the
saving of Grant's army from defeat; his rapid and successful march to
reach Louisville in time to prevent the city from being occupied by
Bragg, and his driving of the Confederate army from Kentucky after the
battle of Perryville, are among the military achievements of General
Buell that are matters of national history. On October 30, 1862,
through the influence of some of his enemies in the Federal army, he
was superseded by General Rosecrans. Among other things with which he
was then charged were failure to capture Bragg's army and to confiscate
certain property held by non-combatants. A military commission was
appointed, before which he was summoned, and after an investigation
covering a period of many months there resulted some criticism upon
some of his movements, but nothing affecting his honor or military
standing. In May, 1864, at his own request, he was honorably mustered
out of service. Thus ended the military career of a soldier who, while
a soldier and later while a civilian, received little of the great
credit due him for the military services he had rendered. His military
career is not properly a subject for this book, but is for others to
write.
2. Although coal has been mined at Airdrie for many years and by various men, this rich field is practically untouched.
2. Although coal has been mined at Airdrie for many years and by various men, this rich field is practically untouched.
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